Each fall, as leaves fall from the trees, branches that were once densely covered in foliage also emerge from hiding. While many gardeners would rather never deal with fallen leaves mess, I enjoyed this opportunity to inspect every tree canopy. Now I take careful note of any branches I may need to remove from the tree. Taking advantage of these quiet months, I have time to develop a plan for pruning and trimming landscaping trees.
How to Prune
Make neat cuts every time you prune to avoid damaging the plant.
All cuts should be made on the branch side of the trunk collar that grows from the trunk at the base of the branch. This protects the trunk and other branches that may grow, and allows the tree to heal more efficiently.
To prevent the bark from tearing when cutting, use the three-cut method: first make a small wedge-shaped cut under the branch on the collar side of the trunk. Next, trim 6 to 12 inches of branches from this wedge, leaving a stump. Finally, make parallel and straight cuts on the branch side of the trunk collar as close to the trunk as possible.
Use the right tools: Trimmers are ideal for trees, vines, and large shrubs. For heavy pruning, pruning shears provide greater leverage with minimal effort. The anvil blade has a sharp blade that crushes and tears the trunk, making it ideal for blunt cutting of dead branches and drying tough old branches. Bypass models have sharp blades that skim the lower sharp jaw for precise cuts, ideal for new growth.
Consider the size of your plants: Use electric pruning shears to cut branches up to 3/4″ in diameter, use pruning shears to cut branches up to 1 1/2″ in diameter, use hand and pole saws to cut branches up to 3/4″ in diameter 4 inch branches.
When pruning flowering plants, pinch off faded flowers before pruning. This is called a “dead corner”.
Don’t wait for plants to overgrow. Pruning should be routine and part of regular garden maintenance.
Spring Pruning Tips
Pruning at the right time is critical to keeping your trees and shrubs in top condition. Prune according to the label on the plant and follow the general rules of thumb below.
Flowering shrubs, hedges, and perennials bloom with spring color. To keep the flowers blooming year after year, give your plants a little care right after they bloom.
Last year’s perennials need spring pruning to encourage healthy new growth.
Spring is the time to form unruly plants, as all harmful shoots should be removed in the fall.
Deadhead flower buds to encourage a fresh start in spring..
Summer Pruning Tips
Pruning is usually associated with spring and fall, but it’s also an important habit to cultivate in summer.
Don’t neglect your hydrangea. First, determine if your hydrangea will bloom on old wood. In other words – does it bloom in early summer and fade in midsummer? For larger, richer blooms next season, prune back when the blooms start to fade.
Prune food in early summer for larger, healthier fruit. Dormant pruning rejuvenates fruit trees, while summer maintenance allows for better air circulation and light penetration. The idea is to thin a dense canopy, especially on older trees. A poorly trained tree will have upright branch angles, which can lead to severe broken branches under heavy fruit loads.
Don’t go crazy. In some species, summer pruning can even stunt growth. Especially the new shoots may not have time to ripen before the cold weather sets in. Be sure to keep a garden log detailing the pruning schedule for each plant.
Trees generally do not need to be pruned in summer. Summer pruning is only recommended to remove water sprouts and suckers, when they start growing near the base or trunk of the tree
see more :
Fall Pruning Tips
Fall and spring are traditional seasons for landscape and garden pruning, but it’s important to recognize that each season places different demands on activity.
One reason for fall pruning is what is commonly referred to as “corrective pruning.” Essentially, this means removing branches that are ruining the rest of your landscape, such as B. plants that disturb other plants or that could cause damage to your home during a storm.
Another reason is to lighten damaged or diseased branches of trees. Since these can be harmful to the tree itself, pruning can actually help the overall health of the plant. A reasonable distance also lets more light in, reducing the need for pesticides.
Fall pruning should focus primarily on improving growing conditions for the next year. Resist the urge to do some serious sculpting before spring.
Wait for deciduous trees to drop their leaves. Cuttings made in early fall tend to heal more slowly than later cuts, leaving your tree exposed to disease for longer. Also, the structure of a bare tree is easier to see, making you less prone to errors.
Dead or diseased branches can be pruned immediately.
Start small and trim smaller branches with a set of hand shears. Take a particular example of a young tree. Since these more precise cuts heal faster, the more work you can do with your hand scissors, the better.
The angle formed by the branch indicates its possible strength. Narrow angles are generally weaker than wide angles. Because storm and snow pressure can damage these branches, pruning weaker branches can help protect your home from winter damage.
Rhododendrons, rhododendrons, and other spring-blooming shrubs, as well as maples, birches, dogwoods, walnuts, and elms, can all be pruned in the fall.
Winter Pruning Tips
Trees and shrubs can be strengthened with winter pruning. Proper pruning helps plants produce more shoots and resist pests and diseases.
Prune foliage plants when they are dormant in winter to encourage new growth in spring. This is a good time to prune many trees, as branch structure is easier to see when they are dormant. Fruit trees are best pruned in the winter to open up the tree for more light during the growing season, while avoiding diseases caused by mid-season pruning.
A great way to start winter pruning is to remember the 3D rules. Is it dead, damaged or sick? Branches that fall into any of these three classifications should be removed before any other pruning, as this can easily change the shape of the host tree or shrub. Leaving these branches in place increases the likelihood of further damage and pest infestation.
So-called “bleeding trees” such as birches, maples, dogwoods, elms, etc. shed a lot of sap after winter pruning, but other than being a little unsightly, they do no harm to the tree.
A good rule of thumb is to prune no more than 1/3 of the branches that are producing new growth.
Prune rhododendron shrubs before new growth emerges. Only slight shaping of the overgrown limbs is usually required.
Prune blueberries during the coolest part of winter. The most productive branches are those that are only a year or two old, so annual pruning can go a long way. Stems older than 3 years should be cut to the ground.
Cut the butterfly bush (buddleia) to the ground in winter and it will re-grow in the spring to bloom in the summer.
Feel free to prune weeping myrtle in winter. With proper domestication, pruning is purely cosmetic and is usually not necessary for the health of the tree.
When pruning hydrangeas, do some homework before pruning. The most common types, including blue, pink and white pug and oakleaf hydrangeas, will bloom on existing “old” wood and should be left alone for winter. White-flowered varieties, such as “Limelight” flowers on new wood, can be pruned in winter. Endless summer hydrangeas bloom on old and new growth.
Avoid pruning most oak trees in winter, as they are more susceptible to Phytophthora, a plant pathogen that causes sudden oak death, or SOD.
Hedge Pruning Tips
Hedging requires special care.
Use a hedge trimmer to make your hedge wider at the bottom than the top so that rain and sunlight can reach the bottom for growth.
Do not cut hedges straight up or down or they will look like walls.
If you live in a warm climate, you may need to trim your hedges more than once a year. Pruning at the wrong time can remove next year’s blooms.
Cut dead, diseased, and damaged wood with sharp pruning shears or hand shears.
Cut back ingrown branches to give the shrub more sun and air.
Perennial Pruning Tips
Perennials benefit from mid-season and dormant pruning for years of enjoyment.
Start by pulling out any loose dead stems.
Use a sharp knife or trimmer to trim dormant stems near the base of the plant. Avoid cutting new shoots.
Tidy up perennials by picking up or raking plant and animal debris.
Add a few more inches of mulch if needed.
Most importantly, don’t be nervous. Some pruning mistakes reappear.
Tips for Pruning Trees
Be careful when pruning trees and only work where you can safely reach. For severely damaged and dead trees, consult a certified arborist.
On young trees, protect the leader or trunk from competition. Remove any bent, broken, or bent second wires.
If branches rub against each other or cross, remove one.
Use a knife or scissors to remove branches or side branches from the base of the tree.
Trim the lower extremities to reveal more of the torso.
Slightly crop the upper body to enhance the natural shape.
Never top logs or slash them with a chainsaw as this will break the shape and cause problems. There is one exception to this rule, the tree of chastity (Vitex). It can be raised either as a multi-stemmed tree or heavily pruned annually to give it a shrub-like shape.
For optimal tree health, prune and remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood regularly.
When removing the entire limb, avoid cutting too close to the torso. Most limbs form a natural collar at the crotch. Cut outside this raised edge on the opposite side of the trunk.
When removing a branch, first cut about a third up from the branch, about an inch from the collar. Then start an inch or so outward and trim down to finish the cut. After removing the branch, trim the rest back to the collar. As with any pruning, take safety precautions to avoid getting hit by falling branches.
When you notice a young tree starting to split into two trunks, you make a difficult decision: cut down one of the trunks. Growth both weakens the tree’s overall strength and makes it prone to collapse. Waiting until the tree is old will only make this necessary work more difficult for you.
Conclusion
“How to prune trees” is to help people prune trees that are important to them properly. If you doubt your ability to be safe. If you prune large trees, hire a professional arborist.